Nasi Goreng

Indonesian fried rice. I ate this constantly on Gili Air, coming in off the reef.

I ate this often on Gili Air, coming in off the reef after snorkelling — salt still on your skin, and a plate of this in front of you. The lazy turtle is from the same water, the same week.

The method below is a draft — my own version isn't written down yet.

• day-old cold rice, which matters more than anything else
• garlic, shallots, chilli, pounded to a rough paste
• kecap manis — the sweet soy is what makes it nasi goreng and not fried rice
• an egg, fried hard-edged and crisp, on top
• prawns or chicken if you like; often neither
• cucumber and tomato on the side, cold, to cut it

Very hot wok, paste first until fragrant, rice in and pressed against the metal so it catches, kecap manis last so it doesn't burn.